A little adventure through West Africa during my internship with the UN World Food Programme in the Gambia.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Dirt.
Major roads here are paved but everywhere else is dirt roads. Also, there are no sidewalks so anytime you walk anywhere you walk in the dirt. Its a sandy kind of red dirt that has this incredible capability of sticking and staying with you. My apartment has dirty footprints throughout constantly (tile floors). I mop every other day but I just can't seem to get it clean. (There are housekeepers that can clean my apartment everyday as a part of my rent, but they are known for sticky fingers, so I choose to clean myself.)
Its amazing, though, how the people here have embraced it. Many people here have dirt floors in their homes or even homes made of dirt. Many people with mud houses loose everything in the rainy season as their homes turn to mud. Making homes of concrete is just outrageously expensive, by these standards, so most can't afford it. In the city, you see a lot of houses made out of tin. These neighborhoods look a lot like slums that you see all over the world. However, even these houses are better than dirt homes, as they are much more durable and the people in them are richer.
Every day people get up early in the morning and sweep and "water" their dirt so it's left looking nice and clean. Every business and every home has nicely raked and swept dirt everyday. It's not just one or two people, its everybody! I haven't quite gotten to the point of embracing it, I hate getting dirt in my bed, and always having super dirty feet. But it is neat to see how people make the best of the resources that they have been provided.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
A New Season Begins
The second thing that added to this eeriness was the rainy season began. The rains start in June and get worse and worse through August and taper off in October. I thought that meant that we would just get a little rain in June and July and gradually it would rain harder and harder. I was mistaken. I have never seen rain like it rained today. It started sprinkiling so I went onto a little porch area then the heavens opened up. Within 10 minutes our compound was flooded. Two palm trees broke in half due to the weight of the rain. There was no heavy wind, no thunder, no lightening. Just intense, hard, driving rain. It lasted about an hour and looks like its going to start again any minute. Every one has been preparing and talking about the rainy season and now I know why. It is dangerous to be in it. You need to plan ahead so you don't get caught in it. There are no tours and travel companies running right now, and now I see that it is just too much of a liability to be taking people out in that. I have changed my plans to return in late July instead of August. I first began thinking of doing that when I started to hear the horror stories of the rains (then some school responsibilities forced me to change plans), but I am so happy that I will not be here for the worst of the rainy season. It will certainly be an interesting couple weeks in this new weather!
Friday, June 24, 2011
No More Stimulus Overload
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Looked After
Saturday, June 18, 2011
How's the food?
Because the Gambia depends on tourism, they have tons of food and restaurants that cater to every palate. I eat lots of pizza and pasta, club sandwiches, fried chicken sandwiched (I still miss Chick-fil-A), hamburgers, Indian food and last night I had Chinese. The African food is also wonderful. They eat a ton of fish here because we are right on the ocean and these waters are largely under-fished so every fisherman catches a lot. (Dad you should give up on Smith Lake and come here!) You can eat fish and chips andy way you can dream. If there isn't fish in a dish than there are probably prawns or prawn sauce, which are ship. I have a friend at home that specializes in mercury intake, he would have a fit over how much fish is eaten here. But there is far less commercial pollution so these fish are not as dangerous to eat as fish at home.
A noticeable difference from home is that everything here is so fresh! I have some friends in Alabama who are from Africa, they never eat meat in the States because they say that it tastes wrong. It is so different here because it is killed in the morning and eaten for dinner. Nothing is ever frozen, shipped thousands of miles, or processed, like all of our food in the US. At home there is a movement to "Eat Locally." Here, you don't have a choice. The fruit is so delicious, banana, oranges, mangos etc. can be picked off trees everywhere you go. They don't use GMOs here (Genetically Modified Organisms that scientifically make our food grow faster and bigger that are herbicide and pesticide resistant etc.) so everything is smaller but is packed with a lot more flavor.
I have a small kitchen and mini-fridge, but the fridge doesn't usually work and its difficult to cook for 1 with out left-overs, so eat almost every meal out. (I do have powdered milk and cereal, long-lasting yougurt, cheese and crackers at home.) This time of year many, many restaurants are closed because there are no tourists and locals can't afford it. The restaurants that are open have super long menus but you have to pick out youtop 5 choices because they may not have the ingredients. As an extreme example, I went to an Italian restaurant the other day and they didn't have flour to make pizza! Begining in August, the restaurants and supermarkets will be closed all day due to required fasting in Ramadan. During that period people may not eat or drink while the sun is up, so all the places that sell food close down so as not to tempt anyone. People are known to get very irritable during this period and it sounds terrible. I have decided to go home in late July and am so happy that I'm going to miss Ramadan.
Food here is also very expensive if you don't eat rice every meal. The cheapest thing that I have found so far is tomato soup, which is $5-8, and I eat it almost every night for dinner. Its amazing how much policy in the US affects the rest of the world. The US subsidizes farmers to not grow food, buys corn to convert to ethanol, and buys excess crops to send to other countries. Each of these practices effects the natural economics of the food market and drives up food prices all around the world. All around teh world there has been a food crisis, not because there is not enough food, but because there is plenty of food sitting around and nobody can afford to buy it. There has been a little bit of talk about rising food prices in the United States, but that has been astronomical to so many other countries, and Gambia is certainly not excluded.
The locals eat a lot of rice. Rice for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It's white rice usuallyu accompanied by some type of tomato or pepper sauce and of course, fish. I have a friend that grew up in a family of 11 and he said hkis family ate on less than $1 a day be eating rice and catching their own fish, squirrel or rabbit to eat with it.
I for one, am looking foward to returing home to cheap Mexican food and Jack's milk shakes! Have a great day!
Monday, June 13, 2011
Slowing Down
- At home we do things big. We have big cars to buy lots of groceries, live a long way from work and have big houses to store all of our stuff. Here, things are done on a much smaller level. A lot of that is dure to the extreme poverty here, people just can't afford much, but it also has to do with the culture and circumstances. People don't have cars to take to a grocery store, so they only buy what they can carry and are going to eat for the day. People have to live close to work and within walking distance of what they need, so there are little shops and markets everywhere. You never have to go too far to get everything you need.
- From what I can tell, there is not a great mail system here. You don't get phone bills or electric bills. To keep your phone going you have to buy a little scratch off card with a code for more minutes. They are sold on every corner and in every store. You also just have to remember to go pay your electric and water bill. If you forget they cut it off. It could still be a few days before you realize that you forgot to pay your bill, because you are so used to no power or water anyway. (I've been to the electricity company twice and they didn't even have power!)
- For me, the biggest thing to get used to is the pace. If the South is considered to have a slow pace, Gambia is molasses slow. If you want to dine out, forget about fast food. Everything is cooked to order and they often have to go to the market or find a chiken to kill (no joke!) So lunch or dinner can take up to a couple of hours, even just to eat at a small casual place. You can only get internet when you are at an internet cafe, if the power goes out, you are out of luck, and the internet is still really slow, so its going to take a while to do anything anyway. (I usually take my laptop to browse the internet while I wait for dinner~problem solver!) Gambia depends a lot on tourism to drive its economy. Tourist season is November-March so many of the restaurants, hotels and other businesses are clossed. Lots of people are out of work and Gambia is moving even SLOWER than usual. I'm accustomed to being busy all the time, so slowing down has certainly been a challenge.
Anyway, those are just small day to day things that are just different from home and need some getting used to. Have a great day!
Saturday, June 11, 2011
A Prayerful People
Friday, June 10, 2011
Animal House
There are also lot of farm animals everywhere. Cows roaming the streets, goats meandering through markets and chickens looking for food in restraunts. There are some garbage trucks here (I've seen one in the resort areas) but most people throw their trash in a large heap and burn it every once in a while. The animals dig through the piles finding the tastiest treats. It sounds like a great plan but the animals tend to find things that can make them sick, kill them or contaminate their milk and meat that people eat. They also leave little messes behind so you have to watch where you step. There was a public health study in Peru a few years ago that had one village put their animals in fences or cages and one village let their animals roam as usual. It was astounding how much desiese dropped when the animals weren't out, especially among young children who have a tendency to put everything in their mouths!
There are also lots of cats and dogs. They are often very mangy and sick looking and the only attention they get is being kicked or shooed when they get too close. A far cry from treating a pet like a member of the family, buying it treats and dressing it up! There are a few dogs that are pets, but very few. The Gambians tend to be scared of the cats. I've been asking why. One person told me that they are considered unlucky. Another told me that they have rabies. Who knows!?
The wild life is a constant source of entertainment for me. This morning I watched a family of monkeys gather breakfast on my way to work, a horse graze and check out a crocodile at lunch, and have been shooing a hen and her chicks while I've been writing this blog! I wouldn't call Gambia an "Animal Lover's Paradise"~ as most of the animals are mistreated. But it certainly is neat to see so much life all the time!
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Daily Life in Africa
In some ways, daily life in Africa is the same as the good ole US of A. I get up every morning, head to work, eat out for lunch, and look at Facebook everyday. But a lot of things are taking some getting used to. For example, I will forevermore be infinitely more grateful for washing machines. To wash clothes here you must:
- Get 5 buckets of water
- Fill 4 with soap
- Put whites in 1 and colors in another
- Scrub every inch of an article of clothing
- Rinse and Ring
- Put it in the next bucket of soapy water and Repeat steps 4-5
- Put it in a bucket with no soap and repeat steps 4-5
- Hang to dry
- Iron when dry
Something else I'm not yet used to is not having power. Rainy season started last week and we only get a couple of hours of power a day. There is no air conditioning, but no power means no fans, no water, no refrigerator, no lights, no internet. In short, if you have a flashlight you can read or play games (we play a lot of cards!) I didn't take a shower for 3 days simply because we didn't have water. Last night, I FINALLY got a cold shower! If you want a hot shower, you have to ask the man at the compound to turn on the hot water, but he had already left when the power came back on last night. With the power shortage, it is also becoming more difficult to find things to eat. I'm weary to eat meat if it has not been refigerated properly so I'm quickly becoming a vegetarian. It sounds terrible, but everyone here is so used to it, it doesn't seem like a problem at all. I'm worried about when the rains REALLY come and we can't sit outside anymore and we can't keep the windows open for the breeze. Everyone spends so much time outside here, I think it will be really oppressive. We'll see!
Another thing that I'm still getting used to is depending on public transport to get everywhere. I've never depended so heavily on strangers to get me to where I need to be and always needing cash to get around. There are 3 types of taxis here. Green taxis are tourist taxis and charge about 400D ($16), yellow and green taxis are town taxis that take you by yourself anywhere you want for 25-100D ($1-$4) and yellow and green taxis with a taxi sign on top are taxis with little routes and carry lots of people at a time for 7D (28 cents). If you take those taxis you may have to take several to get where you want. But I can take one to work. Its taken me a long time to tell the diffence between a town taxi and a taxi for 7D, but now I think I got it down.
In other news, I got a kitten this weekend that is absolutely wonderful! The ticket guy at the soccer game let me hold her and then told me to keep her. So I did! She looks about 1 month old and is still drinking milk, but she is very playful and sweet. Everyone loves her!
Work has gotten much better. I have lots of projects to keep me busy. Most of them are research studies and I probably cannot leave the office for liability reasons. So I'm just looking at a lot of data all day. Its not exactly what I had in mind, but I may look for other volunteer opportunities to do when I'm not working.
I'm trying to upload pictures everyday to Facebook. Feel free to check it out! Thats all. Have a wonderful day and enjoy your electricity!!